3 Perfect Days in Istria, Croatia

Day 1 — Exploring Rovinj

Rovinj dates back to at least the 3rd century, originally a small island settlement. It later became part of the Venetian Republic (1283–1797), which shaped its Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Rovinj was only connected to the mainland in the 18th century, when the channel separating it was filled in. Today, it remains one of Croatia’s most romantic old towns, famous for fishermen, artists, and narrow medieval streets cascading into the sea.

We parked at this paid parking spot (€2/hour) (Google Maps link) — pricey, yes, but close enough to walk into town and enjoy the postcard view of Rovinj from afar first.

Coffee with a View

First stop: Augusto Coffee Shop — the perfect café to settle into Rovinj’s atmosphere, with street seating and cozy sofas to watch life unfold.

Into the Old Town

From there, we entered the historic core through Balbi’s Arch.
Balbi’s Arch (1680) stands where the old town gate once was and features the Venetian lion — a clear reminder of Rovinj’s long Venetian past.

We wandered narrow stone alleyways as they slowly climbed toward the town’s crown jewel:

Church of St. Euphemia

At the very top rises the Church of St. Euphemia, dedicated to the town’s patron saint. Built in the 18th century, it houses the relics of Saint Euphemia, a Christian martyr from the 4th century whose sarcophagus is kept inside. The sweeping panoramic view of the bay and islands from the church is absolutely breathtaking. Entrance is free — go inside, soak in the silence.

Right below the first steps, Caffe Bar XL awaits — a charming stone-surrounded spot perfect for a drink right after the climb.

Down to the Coast

Continue descending until you reach Rovinj’s bunker, a remnant of World War II defenses, now standing as a curious historical relic facing the sea.

From here, stroll the waterfront as the sun sets in front of you. The sea was so calm it looked like a lake, mirroring the sky and turning the world into a canvas of colors. Golden hour in Rovinj feels unreal.

Walk back through the old town as amber street lanterns light up the stone streets — pure magic.

Dinner

We finished the day at Dario Restaurant Pizzeria — great price/quality, fantastic pizzas. The Jumbo pizza is exactly what it sounds like… gigantic!

Day 2 — Ancient Power in Pula

Pula has been inhabited for over 3,000 years, flourishing under the Romans, who made it an administrative and naval center. Venetians, Austro-Hungarians and Italians also left their mark. Today it’s a vibrant coastal city famous for one of the best-preserved Roman arenas in the world.

We drove 40 minutes from Rovinj after brunch at home (saving some $$ for later snacks!).

Pula Arena (Roman Amphitheatre)

Standing in front of the 1st-century AD Pula Arena was jaw-dropping. Built under Emperor Vespasian (same as the Colosseum in Rome), it once hosted gladiator battles and could hold over 20,000 spectators.

Legend says giants helped build Istria, and one giant placed these stones here — a charming myth that adds magic to the scene.

Entrance: €10
Walk around the arena first — the external arches are stunning. Then grab a drink at Caffe Bar La Resistance, overlooking the Arena — a view you won’t forget.

Pula Fortress (Citadel)

Next: Pula Citadel — a star-shaped Venetian fortress from the 17th century, once guarding the city.
Entrance: €6

Forum Square & Temple of Augustus

Head to the Forum, Pula’s ancient Roman main square.

Here stands the Temple of Augustus — dedicated to Emperor Augustus and built in the 1st century BC. Its elegant Corinthian columns feel straight out of ancient Rome.

Entrance: €2

Mosaic: The Punishment of Dirce

A short walk leads to this 2nd-century mosaic, hidden for centuries and discovered after WWII bombing. The story depicts Dirce being punished by Hera, a masterpiece of Roman art.

Free entrance — and much bigger than expected!

Arch of the Sergii

Finish strong at the Arch of the Sergii (29–27 BC), honoring a prominent Roman family. A beautiful triumphal arch marking ancient Pula’s grandeur.

Near here you’ll find Pula’s market, perfect to walk around or grab food.

Day 3 — Legends in the Hills: Motovun & Hum

Motovun

About 1 hour from Rovinj, Motovun rises high over the valley like something from a medieval fantasy.

History & Legend

An ancient Celtic and Illyrian hillfort, later Roman, then Venetian — Motovun watched centuries unfold. It’s surrounded by 13th-century town walls still intact.

Local legend says the giant Veli Jože protected these lands — another echo of Istria’s mythical giants.

Stop first at Motovun Photo Point for the perfect postcard view.

We parked near the cemetery (parking paid — and trust me, they were checking tickets!).

Walk Motovun’s stone streets, admire the views, visit its church and tiny cafés overlooking endless valleys.
You can explore the whole town in ~1–1.5 hours.

Hum — The Smallest Town in the World

Next stop: Hum, about 40 minutes from Motovun.

Population? Around 30 people. Hum proudly holds the Guinness World Record as the smallest town in the world — a cluster of stone houses atop a hill, tiny but incredibly charming. Wander, snap photos, breathe the silence.

After exploring, drive 1 hour back to Rovinj, closing three magical days filled with sunsets, ancient ruins, charming villages and tales of giants.

Car Rental Options

Here are reliable car rental services for Istria:

• DiscoverCars
• Rentalcars.com
• Local Croatia-based agencies (often great value)

Having a car will unlock hidden beaches, hilltop towns and sunset viewpoints you’d never reach otherwise.

More Croatia Guides

If you’re traveling further through this stunning country, check out my other travel guides:

• Split in 2 Days
• 4 Days In Hvar Island
• The best beaches in Stari Grad – Hvar